Fashion experts have raised concerns about the resurgence of ‘extremely thin’ models in the industry, as revealed in new research published by Vogue Business.
The report, which analysed the size inclusivity of runway shows during the spring/summer 2025 showcases in major fashion capitals, highlighted a worrying trend towards a lack of diversity in model sizes. Of the 8,763 looks presented across 208 shows, only 0.8 percent featured plus-size models (US 14+), while 94.9 percent were categorized as straight-size (US 0-4).
Despite some improvement in mid-size representation, with 4.3 percent falling into the US 6-12 category, the stagnation in plus-size inclusion is causing alarm among industry experts. Paris stood out for featuring the highest percentage of plus-size models in the presentations by Ester Manas and Rick Owens, while other prominent brands like Cecillie Bahnsen, Ganni, Coperni, and Miu Miu failed to showcase any plus-size looks.
In Milan, only 0.3 percent of models were plus-size across nine shows that included mid-size or plus-size representation. Sunnei was commended as the most size-inclusive brand for featuring 33.3 percent mid-size looks. The situation was slightly better in New York, where mid-size representation increased to 5.5 percent, although plus-size representation remained at 0.8 percent. Bach Mai, Willy Chavarria, Rio, and PH5 were among the few brands that included plus-size models in their lineups.
London emerged as the most size-inclusive fashion capital, with emerging talents like Karoline Vitto and Johanna Parv challenging traditional norms. However, the overall regression in size inclusivity has been linked to the rising popularity of weight-loss drugs such as Ozempic. This trend has been noted in previous seasons, with concerns raised about the lack of diversity and representation on the catwalk.
Fashion writer and former Vogue editor Naomi Pike expressed disappointment at the industry’s return to a narrow celebration of body types, highlighting the importance of inclusivity across different size brackets. Plus-size activist Felicity Hayward also emphasized the need for greater representation and diversity to ensure a more inclusive and accepting environment within the fashion industry.
The findings from the research underscore the ongoing challenges faced by the industry in promoting size inclusivity and diversity on the runway. As discussions around body positivity and representation continue to gain traction, there is a growing call for fashion brands and designers to embrace a more inclusive approach that celebrates a wide range of body shapes and sizes.