British police cars, American biscuits, and wild donkeys – what life is like on the Chagos Islands
A military presence looms large over the tranquil turquoise waters and sandy beaches of the Chagos Islands, where a blend of British and American cultures creates a unique atmosphere. British police cars navigate the right-hand side of the road, while a portrait of Winston Churchill adorns the main airport. Islanders snack on American biscuits while passing coconut crabs and roaming wild donkeys, painting a picture of a place like no other.
The Chagos Islands have been thrust into the spotlight as Sir Keir Starmer’s government announced the return of the territory to Mauritius. With more than 60 islands in the Indian Ocean, the archipelago is set to change hands in a deal that ensures the future of a crucial UK-US military base, with Britain maintaining sovereignty over the Diego Garcia base.
As one of the few journalists to have experienced the Chagos Islands firsthand, broadcaster Alice Cuddy provided a glimpse into this intriguing locale. During an interview with BBC’s World at One, she described a place of contrasts – from its serene natural beauty to the coexistence of military personnel and civilian islanders.
Cuddy expressed, “It’s a beautiful island – you can picture white sand beaches, beautiful crystal blue seas. There’s large coconut crabs all over the island, wild donkeys. Just a really, really beautiful spot in a really remote area in the Indian Ocean. And then obviously, it’s also home to this very secure US-UK military base.”
Her access to the islands was restricted, preventing her from exploring the military base and certain secure areas. Nonetheless, she noted a palpable military presence, with troop sightings and the drone of military aircraft in the background. Amidst this juxtaposition of nature and military infrastructure, the islands present a truly captivating blend of British and American influences.
Upon arrival, Cuddy observed symbols of both nations – from Union Jack-printed doors to images of Winston Churchill, juxtaposed with American police cars cruising on the right side of the road. The usage of the US dollar, American plug sockets, and a menu featuring quintessential American fare like tater tots and biscuits only added to the eclectic mix of cultures on the islands.
The Chagos Islands, with their scenic beauty and cultural diversity, stand at a crossroads of history and geopolitics. As discussions around the transfer of sovereignty unfold, the islands’ identity as a melting pot of British and American traditions remains a testament to their intriguing appeal.