In a fascinating display of cultural fusion spanning over two centuries, a traditional pastry known as the “paste” continues to captivate the taste buds of Mexicans, thanks to its origin story tied to British miners. Isabel Arriaga Lozano, an expert in crafting these delectable snacks, carefully combines meat, potatoes, and chili pepper into each ‘paste’, a cherished Mexican delicacy with a heritage tracing back to the mining town of Real del Monte in the state of Hidalgo.
The story of the ‘paste’ begins in the 1820s when migrants from Cornwall, England, arrived in Mexico to work in the mines. These British miners brought with them the precursor to what is now a beloved Mexican treat. The annual International Paste Festival held in Real del Monte celebrates this rich culinary tradition, attracting food enthusiasts from far and wide to indulge in the unique flavours and history of this iconic snack.
Pastes have evolved in Mexico to include a variety of fillings, from traditional spicy mole to sweet options like pineapple or blueberry with cheese. Despite its widespread popularity, many are unaware of its surprising English roots, evident in the English-named graves of miners who introduced the ‘paste’ to Mexico. The iconic snack known in England as the “Cornish pasty” became a practical and hearty meal for miners, featuring a crimped edge that served as a handle, allowing miners to enjoy their lunch without getting their hands dirty.
Arriaga, a seasoned paste maker in Real del Monte, emphasises the importance of love in creating these snacks, noting that about half of the town’s residents make a living from this culinary tradition. The adaptation of ingredients through “mexicanization” has infused the ‘paste’ with local flavours, such as the addition of pepper and parsley for that distinct Mexican taste. The town even boasts a dedicated Paste Museum, commemorating the arrival of the pastry with the first Englishwoman baker, Mary Jenkins, in 1824.
At the Paste Festival, attendees sampled an array of pastes, each reflecting a blend of Mexican and British influences. While pastes in the U.K. may feature fillings like “full English breakfast” or “steak and ale,” the Mexican iteration offers delights such as beans, mole sauce, and tuna with a hint of chili pepper. The festival serves as a vibrant tribute to the enduring connection between Mexico and Britain, bridging the towns of Real del Monte and Cornwall across more than 5,300 miles.